Key Fob Stopped Working? Check This Before You Pay for a New One
Key Fob Stopped Working? Check This Before You Pay for a New One
Short answer: try the battery first. It’s a five-dollar fix that solves this more often than people expect, and it takes less time than driving to a dealership.
We get calls almost every week from someone convinced their fob is dead and they need a full replacement — sometimes quoted $150 to $300 at a dealership before anyone’s even looked at it. More often than not, it’s the battery.
How to Tell If It’s the Battery
A weak battery usually shows a pattern: the fob works fine up close but stops responding from a few feet away, or you have to press the button two or three times before it catches. A fob that’s completely silent — no light, no click, nothing no matter how close you stand — is more likely a battery that’s fully dead rather than a fob that’s actually broken.
Quick test: most fobs use a small coin-cell battery (usually CR2032 or CR2025) that you can swap yourself in under two minutes with a small screwdriver. If the fob works again after a fresh battery, that was the whole problem.
When It’s Not the Battery
If a new battery doesn’t fix it, the next most common cause is the internal contacts — moisture or corrosion inside the fob housing, especially in Summerville’s humidity, can weaken the connection between the battery and the circuit board. We can usually clean and reseat this on-site without needing a whole new fob.
Actual fob failure — a cracked circuit board or a dead transponder chip — does happen, but it’s the least common of the three causes we see.
Reprogramming vs. Replacing
If the fob genuinely needs replacing, that’s a two-part job: a new fob has to be paired to your car’s computer through the OBD port, which is different from just cutting a key. This is where dealership pricing gets steep, since they’re charging for both the part and the programming time. We carry the same programming equipment and typically come in well under dealer pricing, done at your location.
Aftermarket vs. OEM Fobs
An aftermarket fob programmed correctly works the same as an OEM one for locking, unlocking, and most remote-start functions. The only real difference is build quality over the long run — OEM housings tend to hold up a bit better to years of pocket wear. For most people, an aftermarket fob is a perfectly reasonable choice.
Fob Acting Up? We’ll Check Before We Quote a Replacement
Battery swap, contact cleaning, or full reprogramming — priced honestly based on what it actually needs.
Call (843) 604-6054Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what battery my key fob needs?
Most fobs use a CR2032 or CR2025 coin-cell battery, usually printed on the old battery itself or listed in your owner manual. Either size fits most fob housings.
Can a locksmith reprogram my existing fob instead of selling me a new one?
If the fob hardware is intact, we can usually reprogram it to your vehicle without you having to buy a new unit at all.
Does a dead fob mean I am locked out of my car?
No. Nearly every fob has a small physical key blade hidden inside it, specifically so you are never stuck if the electronics fail.